Diamond Cut Guide

When we talk about a diamond’s cut, we’re really talking about the skill and craftsmanship that go into shaping it. It’s all about the angles, the symmetry, and the polish—the tiny details that decide how light will move through the stone. The better the cut, and the more expert the cutter, the more dazzling and reflective the diamond will be.

There’s a lot that goes into what makes a great cut, but the most important parts are brilliance — how much light the diamond reflects and fire, which is how the stone breaks light into those beautiful rainbow flashes inside. Then there’s scintillation, which measures how much the diamond sparkles as it catches the light and moves.

Various shapes are created for additional highlighting effects. The round, for instance, is designed for optimal sparkle, while emerald, or Asscher cuts are about clarity and elegance, which means they give off a more subtle radiance. That’s why the cut grade, which rates how well all these different components are balanced, is one of the most important things to consider when selecting a diamond.

One diamond catches the light beautifully while another may seem more muted — ever wondered why? The secret is in how light moves through the stone and the cut is the star. From classics set in rounds to vintage-inspired emeralds, we’re revealing how each shape interacts with light and what that means for the sparkle of your diamond.

How Different Cuts Reflect Light

To help you visualise the difference, we’re creating simple diagrams showing how light flows through three of the most popular cuts — using colour-coded arrows to show how it enters, bounces, and exits the diamond.

When a diamond sparkles, it’s not one kind of light you’re looking at, but a fragile balance of three different types of effects: brilliance, fire and scintillation. These are what lend diamonds their unmissable magic, and they each narrate a different tale about how the stone is cut and how it reflects light.

Brilliance

That bright, white light you see when a diamond catches your eye is brilliance. It comes from the way light enters the diamond and bounces off its inner surfaces. With a well-cut diamond, that light bounces right back out of the top of the stone which is why you get that clean, sharp sparkle. It is most noticeable in round and princess cuts, which are engineered to return the best sparkling possible.

Fire

Fire is where things get a little more playful. It’s the flashes of colour—reds, blues, greens and purples — that dance across a diamond’s surface under light. This happens when the diamond bends white light and breaks it into a rainbow, like sunlight through a prism. The more precise the cut, the more intense and colourful the fire will be.

Scintillation

Scintillation is the sparkle you notice as the diamond moves. It’s the flickering, or the pattern of little flashes of light and shade that seems centrifugal, or generated by every tilt. A superbly cut diamond will deliver an animated dance of light and dark spots that shift as you move the stone, conveying lots of beautiful, energetic sparkle.

Additional section

Diamond Cut Styles: Brilliant, Step & Mixed — What’s the Difference?

When it comes to selecting a diamond, the cut style is one of the most significant things to know about. It doesn’t just form the diamond — it shapes how it sparkles, how it feels on your hand and even how visible any inclusions inside the diamond, or natural features on its surface, may be.

The three primary styles are brilliant, step and mixed. Each has its own personality and understanding the difference can make it easier to figure out what type of sparkle is right for you.

Brilliant Cuts

Maximum sparkle, made for light lovers.

Brilliant cuts shine like the sun. Structured with triangle and kite-shaped facets (usually 57 or 58 facets in total), these diamonds are planned to reflect light from so many angles. If you’re interested in that fiery, intense sparkle that appears to go with you as you slide around — brilliant cuts are where you’ll find it.

Common brilliant cuts:

• Round (the sparkliest of all)

• Oval

• Pear

• Marquise

• Heart

• Radiant (part brilliant, part step)

Brilliant cuts are ideal if sparkle is your top priority — they’re lively, eye-catching, and beautifully bright even in low light.

Step Cuts

Elegant, understated, and endlessly chic.

Step cuts have long, clean lines and larger, open facets — think of them as more architectural than sparkly. Instead of twinkle, they give off a mirror-like flash, creating depth and a kind of quiet sophistication that’s hard to miss.

Common step cuts:

• Emerald

• Asscher

Because step cuts don’t hide inclusions as easily as brilliant cuts, you’ll want to look for high clarity grades. But for those who love their jewellery sleek and refined, a step cut is effortlessly cool and timeless.

Mixed Cuts

A bit of both — for sparkle and structure.

Mixed cuts combine the fire of brilliants with the clean lines of step cuts. They’re a delightful compromise: You have the sparkle you love with a little bit more of a modern or utilitarian shape.

Common mixed cuts:

• Radiant

• Cushion

• Princess

Mixed cuts are perfect if you can’t decide between sparkle and elegance. You get a little of both, with a shape that feels contemporary yet full of character.

So, what’s right for you?

Love high sparkle and don’t mind the classic look? Go brilliant. Prefer old-school glamour with a glassy glow? Try a step cut. Want the best of both worlds? Blended cuts are the best of both worlds. Ultimately, it all comes down to your style and what kind of light performance feels most to you.

Choosing the Right Diamond Cut for You

There’s no one-size-fits-all way to pick a diamond. It's not what’s trending, or looking good on paper but feeling right. Whether you’re looking for something that sparkles from every angle, prefer subtle elegance, want something that flatters your hand while also staying on budget — there’s a cut for that.

Let’s explore a few typical buying styles — and the diamond cuts that align with them.

“I love sparkles – the more, the better.”

If you want a diamond that catches the light with every movement, you’ll want one that’s cut specifically to maximise brilliance. These cuts are designed to bounce light around inside the stone before it hits your eye — and they’re guaranteed to turn heads.

Round Brilliant: This one’s the classic for a reason. With 58 facets, it’s built for sparkle and delivers the most brilliance of any shape. It’s timeless, elegant and always a showstopper.

Radiant Cut: This is for those who want the sharp, modern edges of an emerald cut — but with way more sparkle. It combines clean lines with bright flashes of light.

Oval Cut: Slightly softer than a round, but still brilliantly sparkly. Plus, it has a slimming effect on the finger and often looks a little larger, which is a nice bonus.

Great for: Anyone who loves a bit of glamour and wants their diamond to really shine in every light.

“I want a bigger-looking diamond, but I have a budget.”

If you’re trying to make the most of your budget without compromising on wow-factor, some diamond shapes naturally appear larger than others. That’s all down to how the stone is spread — some have more surface area on top, which gives you more visual impact for the same carat weight.

Oval Cut: Elongated shapes like this often look larger than round diamonds, simply because they cover more of the finger.

Pear Cut: With its teardrop silhouette, it offers elegance and a bit of drama — while also giving the illusion of size.

Marquise Cut: This one has the most finger coverage of all. Its pointed ends and stretched middle give it a bold, statement look even at lower carats.

Great for: Budget-conscious buyers who still want that ‘wow’ effect.

“I like something elegant, clean, and a bit more subtle.”

Not everyone is after maximum sparkle. If your style leans more towards timeless, minimalist jewellery — pieces you can wear every day without shouting for attention — these cuts are a perfect match.

Emerald Cut: Known for its sleek, mirror-like shine, the emerald cut has a calming, understated beauty. It doesn’t sparkle in the traditional sense, but it offers flashes of light that feel quietly luxurious.

Asscher Cut: This one’s like a square version of the emerald cut — symmetrical, structured, and full of vintage charm. It’s refined, with a slightly retro feel.

Great for: Minimalists, modernists, and anyone who prefers low-key luxury over all-out sparkle.

“I’m drawn to vintage styles — something with a bit of romance.”

If you love old-school glamour or pieces that feel like they could have a story behind them, some diamond cuts are rich in heritage. These styles have been adored for over a century and still carry that timeless charm today.

Cushion Cut: Soft, rounded edges give this cut a romantic, almost antique feel. It’s a favourite in vintage-style engagement rings and has a beautifully gentle sparkle.

Asscher Cut: This one was huge in the Art Deco era, and it still carries that elegant, 1920s sophistication. Clean lines, symmetrical beauty — it’s quietly captivating.

Great for: Romantics, vintage lovers, or anyone who wants a ring that feels unique and full of character.

Conclusion: How to Choose Based on What Matters Most to You

There isn’t a one-size-fits-all when it comes to diamond cuts — and that’s just the way it should be.

If you’re after maximum sparkle, a round brilliant or radiant cut will give you that wow factor. Want something that looks bigger on the hand without stretching the budget? Cuts like oval, pear or marquise are clever choices. Prefer something timeless and understated? Emerald or Asscher cuts offer quiet elegance. Or maybe you’re drawn to that soft, romantic feel of vintage — in which case, a cushion or Asscher might just speak to you.

The thing is, the best diamond cut is really going to depend on what you value most, be it fire, budget, carat weight, or symbolism. So trust your eye, trust your gut, and choose the cut that just feels most you. After all, you’re not just selecting a diamond, you’re setting a family heirloom in motion.